September 2016

down east september 2016 cover


Editor’s Note by Kathleen Fleury
[accordion] [item title=”Expand to read”] Editor's Note[dropcap letter=”W”]hen we started researching our story on the proposed Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, the nearly 90,000-acre parcel of wooded foothills east of Katahdin, I thought it was the perfect opportunity to bring the kids along for some fun exploration of the Maine woods.

Here’s the truth: I want to love camping. I really do. So about once a year, fueled by a hopeful amnesia, we give it a go. But I should have known by the sheer amount of bug-netting products I purchased before our trip in mid-June that it wasn’t going to be the getaway of my dreams. We were heading into the blackfly capital of the world at the height of blackfly season.

By 9 o’clock on the first evening, with both children still awake, Noah looked at me and asked whether character building was the point of this trip. I am embarrassed to admit we were staying in a cabin with a kitchen, yet we managed to fumble our way through a day of bug bites, repeated sunscreen applications, and the whining of hungry and cranky children (and adults). We’d driven the rough and dusty 16-mile Katahdin Loop Road to a soundtrack of crying and screaming, and our attempt at a short hike had ended with requests from both kids to be carried. And we had spotted several large dock spiders in our sleeping quarters.

The highlight of our trip came the next evening, when we launched a canoe on the East Branch of the Penobscot River at dusk. We didn’t see a moose, but as we paddled by moonlight, we saw a family of ducks, a beaver, and some magical fireflies. Shortly after our return to shore, the kids fell asleep, our 1-year-old still in his lifejacket. And Noah and I enjoyed one glorious hour of quiet — the kind of quintessential, relaxing camping experience that is apparently reserved only for those without two children under 5.

Although I’m obviously not good at camping, I do love the way I feel after spending a couple of days in the Maine woods — I am calm, grounded, and more in synch with the world and the people around me.

In this issue, you’ll find dozens of destinations for your next Maine road trip. Here’s my advice: leave your Pinterest-fueled aspirations of perfection at home. Instead, bring your sense of humor, an appetite for adventure, and plenty of bug spray. — Kathleen Fleury[/item] [/accordion]


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Hidden Maine

Even Vacationland still has pockets of undiscovered country. We spill the beans on 10 super-secret locales you’ve probably never visited — but should.

Katahdin Woods and Waters

Want to be the first person to visit a new national monument? What to expect from Maine’s overexposed, underappreciated North Woods playground.

What’s in Store

You can buy a quart of milk anywhere, but it comes with a neighborhood only at the
general store. By Virginia M. Wright

Scenic Spin

We plucked a narrow-eyed racing cyclist out of retirement and dropped him into the “vacation on two wheels” that is BikeMaine. Can he relax and enjoy the ride? By Jim Butler

See Inside

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Where in Maine?

Can you name this venerable resort and the historic town surrounding it?


The Mail

North by East

Opinions, Advisories, and Musings from the Length and Breadth of Maine

Down East Dispatches

News You May Have Missed

Where’s Wessie?

Westbrook’s River Monster

Lunch with Ann LePage

Maine’s First Waitress

Talk of Maine

Clearing the Air(bnb)


Living the Maine Life


A Vinalhaven Quarry Retreat

Making It in Maine

Shrooms of One’s Own


Mushroom Tart

My Maine

Midcoast Liveratti

Room With a View


What to Do in Maine This Month


Wiscasset’s Little Village Bistro


Northeast by Eastern


DaPonte String Quartet


Anna Noyes’ Goodnight, Beautiful Women

From Our Archives

On the cover: Lakeside camping in Aroostook County’s Deboullie Public Reserved Land by Chris Bennett.

Additional photos: Erin Little (Picnic Table); Michael D. Wilson (Mushrooms); Courtesy of the Daponte String Quartet; Douglas Merriam (Dining)

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