Photographed by Benjamin Williamson
From our October 2017 issue
The wild-blueberry country of Hancock and Washington counties is an off-the-beaten-track choice for a foliage tour. Here are some out-of-the-ordinary stops and activities along the way, to match your adventurous mood.
Visit
You’ll lose track of time browsing at Four Main Street (4 Main St., Cherryfield; 207-546-2664), which displays an eclectic assemblage of antiques and collectibles, including furniture, kitchen gadgets, dinnerware, and odds and ends. While you’re there, take a stroll of Cherryfield village, a National Register Historic District with dozens of ornate Victorian homes.
One of the country’s finest examples of Federal-period Adamesque-style homes, the Ruggles House (146 Main St., Columbia Falls) was built in 1818–1820 for judge and wealthy lumber dealer Thomas Ruggles. Meticulously restored, it’s now a museum open for tours until Indigenous Peoples’ Day.
With a chainsaw for a chisel, Arthur Smith (232 Rogers Point Rd., Steuben) has created a roadside gallery of intricately detailed coyotes, owls, eagles, wolves, and other creatures. His wife, Marie Smith, paints the wooden sculptures.
Play
If you have your own boat, visit Roque Bluffs State Park (145 Schoppee Point Rd., Roque Bluffs), which has launch ramps on both Englishman Bay and 60-acre Simpson Pond. Experienced paddlers will enjoy challenges of intense tidal currents and fog at Cobscook Bay State Park (40 South Edmunds Rd., Edmunds Township; 207-726-4412). The Machias River Corridor is a gorgeous multi-day journey of 51 to 76 miles. Consider hiring a guide if you’re not experienced with whitewater or backcountry camping.
Stretching 87 miles from Ellsworth to Charlotte, the Down East Sunrise Trail passes villages, blueberry barrens, forests, and lakes and ponds. The rail trail is open to mountain bikers, walkers, horseback riders, and ATV riders.
A network of trails laces the forested 14,000-acre Donnell Pond Public Reserved Land (Franklin; 207-941-4412), where you’ll find remote lakes like Tunk Lake (above), mountaintops with panoramic views, and not a whole lot of people. Ambitious hikers should make for the 12-mile Caribou Loop Trail, which summits Black and Caribou mountains.
Eat
A down east icon, Helen’s Restaurant (111 Main St., Machias; 207-255-8423) serves traditional Maine fare like fried clams, steamed lobster, and pot roast. The pies are legendary (needless to say, get blueberry).
44 Degrees North Restaurant & Pub (17 Main St., Milbridge; 207-546-4440) offers good pub fare like nachos and burgers, as well as a nice selection of fresh seafood, including cedar-planked salmon and lemon-caper-dill haddock.
