Is This a Lobster Roll?

Lobster Roll
Photograph by Michael D. Wilson

One of Highroller Lobster’s menu item is as delicious as it is divisive

[dropcap letter=”L”]obster purists can be a finicky bunch. So putting lobster salad in a cheddar-and-Swiss cheese crisp, then topping it with a pick-your-own sauce — like red pepper mayo or lobster ghee — is a brash move. “People sometimes get upset that we’d ever do such a thing to a lobster roll,” Highroller Lobster owner Andy Gerry says. “My only response is, we didn’t! It’s not a lobster roll.” Okay then, what is it? The cheese crisp resembles a tortilla, and therefore, Gerry explains, it is a taco. When he and co-owner Baxter Key first conceived of this not-a-lobster-roll — back when they were just a food cart — they confined it to off-menu status, so you had to be in the know. It’s a year-round staple at Highroller’s new brick-and-mortar restaurant, and no matter what you call it, it’s as delicious as it is divisive. 104 Exchange St., Portland. 207-536-1623.

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