Nowadays, baked beans come from a can, but in olden days, they more often came from a hole in the ground. One of many culinary practices that early New Englanders cribbed from Native Americans was the subterranean slow-cooking of beans, and in the 19th century, bean-hole beans were a staple in Maine’s lumber camps, a tasty supply of much-needed protein in the backwoods. Those camps are long gone, but the beans persist, at church suppers and community fundraisers and also in backyards, where anyone with a little spare time can simmer up a sweet, smoky, tender potful.
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