The Circular Logic of Boynton-McKay

By Will Grunewald

Brian Beggarly and Todd Bross had big plans earlier this year. Beggarly, chef-owner of Boynton-McKay, was going to spin off a taco food truck. Bross, the baker at the snug Camden breakfast and lunch counter, was going to branch out and open his own doughnut shop in Rockland. Then, COVID-19 hit, and those plans went on hold, as did business at Boynton. But Beggarly and Bross struck on an idea: use the kitchen for pop-up, to-go versions of Ruckus Donuts and Cold Toes Tacos. At breakfast, it’s yeasted rounds dressed up in such varieties as lemon coconut, maple bacon, and mocha crumble. At lunch and dinner, it’s fresh corn tortillas folded around blackened scallops or brisket or black beans and sweet potato. Sure, doughnuts and tacos make odd bedfellows — and Beggarly and Bross’s penchants for circular foods are purely coincidence — but loads of hungry customers come around for them.