Husband-and-wife duo Clay Norris and Jenna Friedman didn’t think a highfalutin multi-course tasting menu was right for Baharat, their snug Middle Eastern restaurant in Portland’s East Bayside. Hence the “All-In,” a shareable assortment of menu staples and nightly surprises artfully heaped on a bakery tray. “It’s halfway between a tasting menu and a buffet,” Norris jokes. How many does he dish up? The single-night record is 27.