Becky’s, that iconic breakfast, lunch and dinner counter nestled on Portland’s so-called working waterfront, still packs a punch when a hamburger deluxe platter or dish of bacon and eggs beckon. I ambled in the other day for breakfast. The special that morning was bacon and eggs for $5.95. I’m not sure why this menu mainstay would be called a special, but what the heck. They had to put something on the board.

What I look for, from diner to diner around the state, is the quality of the home fries that are part and parcel of the genre. In some places the potatoes are underdone, or soggy or flavorless. At Becky’s that morning they were near perfect: very crusty exteriors, plenty of greasy goodness from being stoked on the grill and lots of heavy  seasoning did the trick. And instead of the usual toast accompaniment I asked for a grilled cornbread muffin, which was a luxurious way to soak up my runny over-easy eggs.

John Golden makes no bones about sharing his opinion. If you'd like to share yours, email him at jgmaine@aol.com.

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