Table of Contents

Features 66 Kittery's Secret Identity What, exactly, is Kittery? Is it Maine's gateway or Portsmouth's conjoined twin? A shipyard town or a shopping destination?

Features
66
Kittery's Secret Identity
What, exactly, is Kittery? Is it Maine's gateway or Portsmouth's conjoined twin? A shipyard town or a shopping destination? Is it the best of Maine's past or the worst of its future? No one can agree, least of all the people who live here. By Abby Zimet.
74
Fore Street Confidential
A day in the amazing life of Portland's best restaurant. By Michael Sanders.
78
The Reddest State in Red Sox Nation
How to explain the curious love affair between the people of Maine and a ball club from Boston? By Rob Sneddon.
84
Where in Maine?
This coastal village doesn't get the same attention as its much-visited neighbor, but that's fine by folks here. Ever visited this promontory?
86
The AT for You & Me
Not up for hiking all 2,175 miles of the Appalachian Trail? Here are six day hikes that hit Maine's AT hot spots. By Andrew Vietze.
92
The Spirit of Rockport
People in Rockport have come to appreciate, and anticipate, the surprisingly diverse ships that Taylor Allen launches each spring. By Aaron Porter.
96
Man with a Plan
Matt Polstein, a controversial Millinocket rafting guide turned developer, believes ecotourism shouldn't be a dirty word in the North Woods. Interview by Joshua F. Moore.
98
Rustic at Heart
A Harrington summerhouse is an anchor for a pair of academics. By Tom Groening.
104
Ladies of the Lake
Staying at a borrowed camp on Sysladobsis Lake, we found ourselves being drawn into the story of the place. By Elizabeth Peavey.
108
Whistle-Stop Smile
A portrait taken in Livermore evokes the era of railroad vacations in Maine. By Joshua F. Moore.


Departments
North by East
11
The Price of Gas. Are rising fuel costs actually a boon for Maine tourism? Plus opinions, advisories, and musings about rowdy crickets at Bowdoin, a loss for veggie lovers in Portland, grumblings on the Canadian border, a dubious Mainer who made legal history, and more.
The Talk of Maine
17
Smoke-Free Tourism. Maine's ban on tobacco in bars and restaurants hasn't hurt business in the least. By Jeff Clark.
The Maine Viewpoint
25
Fulfilling Baxter's Vision. The fate of a deal to protect Katahdin Lake is in the hands of lawmakers, says an editorial from the Bangor Daily News. Plus opinions on ordinances banning chain restaurants in Bar Harbor, the milfoil menace, legislator ethics, and a fitting name for the new bridge over the Penobscot.
Inside Maine
33
Let's Make a Deal. A state tourism Web site offers discounts on vacation packages. Plus nautical trips offered by the Marine Environmental Research Institute, exploring Maine by bicycle, Birch Point State Park in Owls Head, and a Portland walking tour that explores the working waterfront. By Andrew Vietze.
Dining Down East
39
Conundrum, Freeport. A restaurant beside a Route 1 landmark has become an unlikely local favorite. By Michaela Cavallaro.
Down East Bookshelf
43
Home Waters. Part memoir, part nature guide, Temple Stream is Bill Roorbach's love letter to western Maine. By Kurtis Clements.
Calendar of Events
47
Summer Preview. Here's a sneak peek at the festivities scheduled throughout the summer in Maine.
I Remember
176
The Ledges. I couldn't begin to understand what was happening to my grandmother, but I could stop an ocean. By Meadow Rue Merrill.