Savvy shoppers know that the Pine Tree State is the place to find the best holiday gifts, whether it's that pine dollhouse that little Ashley's been longing for or the brass barometer that will remind grandpa of his days in the navy. And guess how Mr. Claus got so jolly? By sampling the food at Maine's exceptional restaurants and relaxing in the state's inns and bed-and-breakfasts. The editors of Down East borrowed a few pages from Santa's own shopping list and assembled a tour of the Maine coast, arranged from south to north, that's sure to put the twinkle in your eye this holiday season.